PHLReview

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Mawn review image
8.7

Mawn

$$$$

764 S 9th St, Philadelphia
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In some cities, you’re more likely to see a supermodel at an amateur basketball game than have one good Cambodian option for dinner. In a few magical places, both can happen—and Philly is one of them. Kendall Jenner has been spotted at Drexel Dragons games, and we have a massive community of great Cambodian restaurants to choose from. While we can’t comment further on Kendall, we do know a thing or two about restaurants. And with small plates, noodle dishes, and seafood so good that we’d swim the Delaware to eat them, Bella Vista’s Mawn is one of the best. 

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

For many Philadelphians, walking into the intimate BYO may be familiar—it’s in the old Kalaya space on 9th Street. The walls are covered in old rugs, 1930s mirrors that the host of Antique Roadshow would salivate over, and a painting of a Cambodian chicken wearing gold ankle bangles (made by a Fishtown artist). From any of the 10 or so tables—all topped with candles—you can see raw options like oysters with a black pepper mignonette get prepped in the open kitchen. After a few sips of pinot, you’ll probably be inspired to sing along to the Fleetwood Mac playing in the background, order the beef skewers after seeing a couple across from you bite into them, or both. 

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

They serve a mix of Cambodian and Southeast Asian classics, like papaya salad, and more inventive dishes—like head-on soft shell shrimp coated in a fish sauce caramel—that you won’t find on any other menu in the city. From the littleneck clam soup and Thai crab fried rice to the rotating whole fish, it’s one of the best seafood-focused restaurants in town. Almost everything has a complex blend of spice and flawless execution. After a few forkfuls, you may find yourself panicking, “Does shareable mean everyone gets the same amount?”  

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Portion negotiations aside, come with a group of friends on a casual weeknight, bring a date, or anyone else needing a comforting meal that will be the best they’ve had in weeks. By the end of the night, depending on how much you’ve had to drink, the chicken’s smile in the painting may reassure you that you’ve come to the right place for dinner. Or that it’s in need of a gold chain to pull off its look. In magical places, both can be true.

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Food Rundown

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Saht Koh

This ribeye skewer is so fragrant—thanks to the ginger, galangal, and lemongrass marinade—that we thought our senses were heightened to the level of a vampire. But as it turns out, we’re not Dracula; this is just what something smells and tastes like when it’s beautifully seasoned. Served with pickles to add a crunch, it’s juicy and has just the right amount of tenderness.

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Head-On Soft Shell Shrimp

It’s not just one of our favorite dishes here, but it’s also climbing the list of our go-to shrimp dishes in the city. There’s a satisfying crunch when you bite into the shell, the Bird's Eye chili gives it a peppery kick, and the Thai basil and fish sauce caramel is the perfect balance between sweet and earthy.

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Littleneck Somlaw Macchu

This bowl of littleneck clams is big enough for three. They swim in a creamy tamarind lemongrass, Thai chili, and basil oil broth and each spoonful is gorgeous. If this dish gains millions of fans, we were one of the first. If the world ever turns against this dish, we are against the world.

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Khao Soi

A northern Thai curry with braised chicken, chili jam, red onion, pickled greens, and noodles from Neighborhood Ramen (both crunchy and tender), this is the noodle dish to order. It shows off what this place does really well: an exciting mix of flavors and texture mash-ups you didn’t know you needed until the first bite.

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Whole Fish

There are a few ways to make an apology—heartfelt notes, gifts, and with the whole fish from Mawn. The type of fish changes often (we had the dorade), but what you can expect is a pan-seared beauty that’s topped with ginger scallion hot oil to make it super juicy and peppery. It also comes with a fish sauce vinaigrette that you’ll want to put on everything, even your next order of fries.

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Fried Chicken

If you go for the half fried chicken (you should), expect a chicken that’s more roasted than fried. It can be your main if you’re on a date, or claim a drumstick and pass it around the table if you’re in a group. The fish sauce caramel serves as a delicate, sweet glaze. And you’ll need it. The housemade hull sauce it comes with is so fiery, we’re sure if Area 51 is real, they’re hiding barrels of it.

Mawn review image

photo credit: GAB BONGHI

Steak & Prohok

If you’re in the mood for a great steak, look no further. A sliced 20 oz ribeye is topped with Cambodian chimichurri that gives it a citrusy earthiness. The last piece is worth fighting over.

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